“We’re still in the beginning stage of how to eat oysters, where to find oysters, how to appreciate oysters, what sauces to use, what not to do,” Joseph says. And he wants nothing more than to convert us all into oysterheads. You get the sense that when Kevin Joseph was told the world was his oyster, he took it to mean the oyster was also his world. And this homemade American mignonette sauce (apple cider vinegar, shallots, green apple peel and green pepper) drizzled atop an oyster? Life-changing. And knowing how to chew an oyster-to move it around in your mouth and taste the complex layers of flavor, and not just swallow it whole-will change your life, too. This real wasabi right here, he promises, will change your life. Then he’s grating fresh wasabi root over the oyster and denouncing the “wasabi” of most sushi places as “dehydrated and pulverized horseradish, rehydrated with green food coloring.” Once they started eating oysters, their bodies grew, their heads grew, their brains grew, they got more body fat, and they expanded back north.”Īs he’s sermonizing on the oyster, he’s also shucking one, prying it open at the hinge with his flat-bladed oyster knife and laying it down on a bed of ice. “The reason we eat slimy, cold things that look like giant boogers is that Homo sapiens as a species got pushed further and further south to the Indian Ocean, where they discovered, for the first time, the tide going out. “Not just ecologically important but also metaphysically important,” explains Kevin Joseph one evening at his Charleston restaurant, Raw Lab. Ecologically, they’re the keystone species of the South Carolina salt marsh-filter feeders who keep the water clean, the kidneys of the coast. Gastronomically, they’re the raison d'être of raw bars and the soul of seafood joints. The Eastern oyster, Crassostrea virginica, is a little creature for whom it’s easy to wax rhapsodic.
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